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Nestled between Għajnsielem and the island’s main town, Victoria, lies Xewkija, the oldest of Gozo’s villages. Its nomenclature finds its roots in the Arabic term ‘shawk,’ signifying ‘thistles’ or ‘thorns.’ Xewkija distinguishes itself through its colossal church, featuring an iconic dome that graces the island’s vistas from nearly every vantage point.
In this blog post, we invite you to learn more about the highlights of this historic village and why it deserves a visit throughout your stay at Townhouse 17 Boutique B&B.
First things first, guests at Townhouse 17 can get to Xewkija by crossing the road from their accommodation and boarding Bus Number 302, 303, or 323 – you can view their schedules by clicking on the route number. Getting to Xewkija from Townhouse 17 through public transport will not take you more than 10 minutes. If you enjoy a walk, you can walk to Xewkija in about 35 minutes.
Your journey through Xewkija, and any other village on the island, should start at the square (piazza), the heart and soul of each village. You’ll find the Xewkija square teeming with community clubs, quaint shops, eateries, and cafes. From here, step into the church dedicated to St. John the Baptist.
This huge church replaced an older one, that once stood on the same site, which was deemed too small for the village. In fact, the Xewkija parishioners, known for their craftsmanship in Maltese Limestone, wanted a larger church, leading to the construction of a massive 20th-century church designed by architect Ġużè Damato. Damato’s plans were inspired by Venice’s Santa Maria della Salute church.
The Rotunda’s foundation stone was laid in 1952, and the old church was left in place while the new one was built around it. Crafted from local honey-hued globigerina limestone (known locally as Franka), this masterpiece unveils intricate sculptures and a Carrara marble floor. The church is adorned with vibrant stained glass windows, basking in the glow of sunlight. Gaze upwards to admire the zenith of the dome, ranking as the world’s third-largest freestanding dome. Adjacent to the church is the sacristy, home to the older church, which was meticulously dismantled and preserved as a museum. Visitors can also take an elevator to the dome for breathtaking panoramic views.
Xewkija boasts a rich heritage, deeply rooted as one of Gozo’s historic settlements, and this heritage is meticulously upheld through its beloved bakeries. Within the village, numerous bakeries supply the community’s daily bread. Some of the village’s bakeries go beyond breadmaking and also produce the renowned Gozitan ftira, an integral element of the local cuisine. Gozitan Ftira, also known as traditional pizza, features a base made from bread dough and is adorned with an array of local ingredients to satisfy various cravings. If you prefer a closed ftira, it comes stuffed with fresh local sheep cheese and thinly sliced potatoes, and you can add local sausage for an extra burst of flavour if you wish!
Mgarr ix-Xini is a charming bay for swimming and snorkelling, this once-secret cove has become increasingly popular, yet it manages to maintain a sense of tranquillity.
Nestled within a narrow inlet bordered by rugged cliffs, you’ll discover a small pebbly beach at the inlet’s head, offering a gentle incline into the crystal-clear waters. On either side, sturdy rocks serve as platforms for those who wish to dive straight into the deep.
Mġarr Ix-Xini was once a covert refuge for the Knights’ gallant vessels and was even used by marauding Turks to embark captive Gozitans during the infamous raid of 1551 – one of the darkest chapters in the island’s history.
The steadfast Knights’ watchtower that still stands guard at the inlet’s entrance was erected in 1661. Built under Grandmaster De Redin’s rule, it stands strategically at Ras il-Hobz, near Ras il-Fessej, a popular diving spot. The tower, designed by Mederico Blondel, features two floors, a flat roof, and a singular entrance. Costing 957 scudi, it became operational in 1661, guarding against further attacks following the 1551 Ottoman raid. Restored by Wirt Għawdex from 2000 to 2009, it now boasts sustainable lighting and opens when the organisation’s flag is raised.
Notably, Mġarr Ix-Xini was chosen as the backdrop for the filming of ‘By the Sea‘, featuring Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt.
The unique ‘Eight Corner’ Windmill, located at the entrance to Xewkija, boasts an octagonal structure and was built in 1710. It’s the oldest standing windmill in Gozo and has a rich history, initially operated by the Xikluna family of millers and later the Camilleri family. Unfortunately, a fire in 1886 damaged its machinery and antennas. After years of neglect, the windmill was restored with EU funds and reopened in January 2021. Today, it serves as a Centre for Folklore Dancing and a cultural hub, fostering cultural exchanges between locals and tourists. The windmill is open daily until 8pm.
In conclusion, a visit to Xewkija is an exploration of Gozo’s rich history, culture, and natural beauty. This ancient village, with its iconic Rotunda and historic bakeries, provides a glimpse into the heart and soul of the island. The Mġarr ix-Xini Bay and its watchtower remind us of the island’s storied past, while the Xewkija Windmill, the oldest in Gozo, has been lovingly restored to serve as a cultural hub. Xewkija’s charm lies not only in its historical landmarks but also in the warmth and hospitality of its people. So, when you plan your visit to Gozo, make sure to include Xewkija on your itinerary.
With its central location in Victoria, right opposite the island’s main bus station, Townhouse 17 is ideally located if you wish to explore the island with no complexities.
Guests enjoy a daily hearty breakfast and also get a 10% discount whenever they use the services of HOG, Cup Cake Cafe, and Chapeau Bistro throughout their stay at our B&B. Book Now.
